Day 8 - Into the Pyrenees
Friday 1st September 2017
In the morning I go for a stroll. I'm not sure I want to pay the eye-watering price for breakfast in the Parador so I find a little cake shop in a nearby alley and enjoy two coffees and a Danish pastry. That'll do.
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| Breakfast stop |
It's a pity I have no extra carrying capacity as I could buy a 5-litre Rioja wine box on offer at a local shop for €6.95. In the bars and restaurants a glass of very decent wine can be had for €1.60, the same price as a cup of coffee.
I'm on the road at 10am. The motorway is a couple of miles away and I am soon heading for Pamplona via Logrono. It is a fast road across the plain.
As I approach Pamplona the mountains are getting closer and the road sweeps into the foothills of the Pyrenees.
As I approach Pamplona the mountains are getting closer and the road sweeps into the foothills of the Pyrenees.
Logrono is a busy industrial city. The motorway runs through it and is busy for a while. But mostly I am alone on the road, overtaking the occasional wagon and slower car.
Like everywhere in Europe the big Mercs, Audis and Beemers go swishing past at high speeds. The limit in Spain is 120kph on the 'autovias' but this seems to be largely ignored. I've only ever seen a police car in the towns and cities
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Like everywhere in Europe the big Mercs, Audis and Beemers go swishing past at high speeds. The limit in Spain is 120kph on the 'autovias' but this seems to be largely ignored. I've only ever seen a police car in the towns and cities
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Occasionally there will be an overhead sign warning of electronic speed control with radar but no sign of cameras at all.
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| Into the foothills of the Pyrenees |
Pamplona arrives and thankfully is bypassed by the autovias. Mick and I got seriously snarled up here once when we decided to go look at where the bulls run. We expected a small old town but found a vast university city almost totally gridlocked. It took us an age to finally extricate ourselves and get back on the motorway. I really wanted to avoid that experience this time.
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| Narrow lanes in the centre of Asaba |
Around 20 miles east of Pamplona I finally turn off the autovias and head for the hills on a twisty side road.
I am heading for the pretty village of Isaba where I I'll find accommodation. The road is wonderful. It climbs over a low pass with great hairpins and fast sweeping curves. I wave to a couple of other bikers but see hardly any other traffic.
There is a big hotel on the outskirts the village. I turn up a narrow cobbled alley heading up to the big church on the hill. It is very steep and windy, rough cobbles, barely wide enough for a car. There are a couple of Hostals but they don't look very open and there is nowhere to stop and park up. So I the thread my way back down to the paved Main Street and ride back to the hotel.
It is modern and well-equipped. €60 for bed and breakfast. I decide to stay and unload my gear into a surprisingly large room with a fully equipped kitchen alcove. At least I can brew my own coffee.
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| Arrival at the Hotel Isaba |
After sorting out my room I stroll up the hill and into the narrow alleyways of the old village centre. It is stunning, all cobbles and ancient stone houses. For such a small place there are an extraordinary number of rather seedy looking bars. Must be big drinkers around here.
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| Well equipped rooms |
All these establishments have a 'menu du jour', 3 courses with half a dozen choices including bread and wine. Prices range from €15 to €11.50. Looks like pretty good value.
And so it proves to be. I settle on the Hostal Txili. It is a small cafe with basic tables and chairs, lino on the floor and at 20:30 when dining begins it is suddenly packed out with locals. I choose fish soup for a first course and it is excellent, a chowder packed with big chunks of fish and very tasty.
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| Great fish soup |
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| But rather dried up fish |
For mains I have fish again, a grilled trout stuffed with ham which has turned to crispy in the cooking process. It is accompanied by chips. This is okay but a bit dry and tasteless after the soup. Finally I have cheese for afters. Not sure what type, but either sheep or goats cheese, definitely not from cow's milk. Come to think about it I haven't seen a cow all day.
I expected a glass of wine included in the price but got a bottle. Sadly it is a bit rough and sour so I leave half the bottle. But all in all it is amazing value for €13.
And so to bed.
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